Swift Sojourner

We are all up pretty early. It is a beautiful, clear, warm morning. The marina where we are staying is the nicest that we will see. An amphitheater, really clean
facilities, a little beach with outside showers. Lots of other boaters take dips and then rinse off under the outside showers. I take a walk up the hill, then take a dip. Some of us go for a swim at the pebble beach, others go back into the very small town and get some great shots of the fishing boats. We get underway by 10am.

Light breeze – we motor for a while then sail on a slow reach. We drop the swim
deck and ladder, set out a fender on a rope, and take turns hanging off the back. As the breeze picks up, we raise the swim deck and sail a bit faster.

 

 

 

Marlene gives us a “three points of contact” lecture which involves lots of thigh slapping. It is really funny. Frank dubs it “Two Cheeks to the Wind”.

 

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For lunch, Cathy and Lynn make a very large hoagie with a long fresh roll, hamish, cheese, really red tomatoes, etc. It looks fantastic on the cockpit table and tastes even better. It is the first of many great lunches aboard.

The wind picks up again and we do 5 to 7 knots as we approach Vis. After spending so much at the marina in Solta, we are happy to anchor in the little Vis harbor. We take the dingy (rubba-duck) off the fore deck and go ashore to walk around the coast a little. We see an old monastery, with a scenic cemetery overlooking the harbor, roman baths (far on the other side of a stone wall), a Hellenic necropolis (cemetery) that we can walk through. In town we visit a wine shop and buy fig bars – Vis is known for their herbed fig bars.

Swimming and sundowners back on the boat. In preparing for dinner, we discover that Radey’s shower sump pump is not working. They end up using the front shower for the rest of the trip as we are unable to find an in-line fuse anywhere. Dingy to town, then walk around for a while until Gostonia catches our attention – tables are set up on the sidewalk, we can sort of see the water, the host is not pushy and there is a table for 6 in a prime spot. Our waiter’s most prominent feature is his “big, large” nose. He helps us select some excellent dishes, very reasonably priced. We finish with carob cake and learn that the seeds from the carob are traditionally used to feed the mules during harvest – the mules love them, they are high in energy, and contain a mild stimulant, not unlike caffeine. The cake is really good.

On the doors of the toilets are pictures of knots that are suggestive of anatomically appropriate body parts. We find plenty to laugh about as dinner winds down.

We wake to a beautiful sunny day and motor out of the harbor at 9:30. Once out in the open water we have a tough decision to make. Marlene has spent a lot of time researching destinations. Korcula town is a prime destination, but we suspect that it may be too far east to get to comfortably and not compromise the rest of the trip. That is, it is going to take a full, long day to get there and maybe two days to get back, depending on the winds. After plenty of indecision, we decide to point in the direction of Korcula town, with the wind at our back and see how it goes. After about 20 minutes on a sloppy run, and consulting with the crew (’cause Mar and I cannot decide) it is concluded that we will have to save Korcula for a future trip. We turn and reach our way to the Pakanini Islands where we anchor for lunch and a really nice swim. We are joined by a young Belgian couple who have rented a small motorboat in Hvar and need a place to tie up while they snorkel. They are charming.

We make the short sail around the islands to Hvar town. The harbor is crazy busy – water taxis, arriving boats, departing boats, ferries. We motor in to the quay (“key”) and are waved off – there is no room – so we turn back and anchor at the mouth of the harbor where there is a little opening. It is a little tight, but there seems to be room. We make a few adjustments. The view up the hill to the citadel is great. It is pretty wavy with taxis and working boats going by at a good clip along with the Jadronlinija ferries. We have sundowners as the sun sets over a large red bouy. The view is great despite the high boat traffic. We make the relatively long dingy ride to the center of town just a little after sunset.

As we step ashore, Jeff announces “There’s a restaurant”. We end up walking for the better part of an hour looking for the right restaurant. We walk though small winding alleyways that are alternately cool or warm with polished stones as pavement. Ancient buildings with old wooden doors and shutters and unusual protrusions that are used to hang flags or support loads. After walking most of the lower part of the town, we settle on Faria (partly because it was recommended by a man who was clearly a local in a small alley far away from the center of town) in a garden-like setting under a vine canopy a little up the hill. It seems to have potential, but service is very slow and we are hungry.

When the food arrives there is a lot of it; a meat platter, lamb, fruti-di-mari. After dinner I order three grappa shots – herbal, plum, grape – and schlivovitz that we pass around and take turns sipping and commenting on. The general opinion is somewhere between firewater and lighter fluid. I am sorely disappointed in the flavors, but we have some great laughs making fun of them.
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We start to head back to the dingy, but Lynn and Frank (who have been demonstrating an ability to wander off and find interesting things to see) have separated from us and then find us again, suggest that we circle back to a cool wine bar on a marvelous little alleyway. We are entertained by our knowledgeable waiter and enjoy some really nice wine. But our waiter occasionally disappears. We find out that he is ducking into an adjacent establishment to watch the end of the US Open. Cilic (#10) (“Cheelich”) is playing Nishikori who is ranked 14. Cilic is Bosnian but is from Magigoria and speaks Croatian. As we finish drinks, he is up in the 3^rd set after winning the first two. On the way back to the dingy, we duck into bars along the way to check on the score and see the final three points. A sort-of-local has won the US Open. The last time that a Croatian local won a major, Mar and I were in Croatia for Wimbledon in 2001.

Back at the boat we hear heavy disco beats until 2am. It keeps Jeff and Frank awake. The last two songs that they hear are both Michael Jackson. (Much of the music that we hear in various establishments are English based songs – many from the 60s and 70s). Shortly after the disco beat subsides and Frank and Jeff are dozing off to sleep, they are awakened by a rowdy boat nearby; it is all German guys and they are yelling “Harry” over and over again. They estimate that they continue to yell for more than an hour.

Sometime after this, Mar and I lurch awake to the sound of the anchor chain. I fly up onto deck. Frank has noticed that the wind has stopped and that we are drifting close to an adjacent boat (the anchorage that was tight earlier feels even more so without the wind to keep us all in the same direction). He has pulled up some chain to keep us from hitting a boat (the Harry boat) behind us.

We get up late (9:45) and have a simple yogurt breakfast. A boat anchors very close to us, but the skipper stays aboard and very courteously lets us know that he knows he is too close and intends to stay aboard to keep an eye on things. At about 11:30 we dingy ashore and walk up to the fortress at the top of the town (Spanola). On the way up, Marlene stops at a dentist and has a tooth cap (which has come loose) glued back on. The dentist’s office is on the alleyway up to the fort. It costs about $65 – well worth it. The walk up is very scenic as is the view from the top. We spend a lot of time walking around the walls to enjoy the great views of the harbor far below. It is getting late, we need to walk back down, do some grocery shopping, get back to the boat, and get underway.

We decide to split up with some going in search of vegetables, some for baked goods. Hvar is a good-sized town (small city?) and it turns out that it is not easy to find one another again. Mar and Lynn have found a nice open-air market with fresh figs, tomatoes, etc. Frank and I get separated from Mar and Lynn, eventually reunite, but we have not seen the Hipples. After searching for a while we decide that they must be at a restaurant. Lynn and Mar walk up one side of the harbor, Frank and I on the other. Frank and I find them on our side, not far from the dingy waiting for sandwiches that they have ordered. To expedite things Frank runs me back to the boat so that I can begin preparing to leave, while Jeff and Cathy wait for their order. He then runs the dingy to the other side to pick up the girls, then back to the first side for Hipples. Just after he drops me off at the boat, I hear a skiff pull alongside. The authority in the boat tells me that we are not permitted to anchor in the channel (where we have been for almost 22 hours) that is marked by the big red bouy. I assure him that we are moving on as soon as the crew returns. After rounding everyone up, we depart at 3:20.

Lunch aboard while motoring, then we try a couple of slow (2.5kt) reaches to clear the west end of Hvar island. It makes for nice sunning on deck. We arrive at Stari Grad (on the north coast of Hvar) at 7:15 right at sunset. I have some trouble bringing the boat in stern-to and have to take a couple of shots at it. The attendant suggests that I “get more headway” and then, when “3 meters away, use forward to stop”. Good advice.

This section will focus on your assignments, prioritizing, getting the training you need, how discounts on cialis to act in response to sexual incentive. If any of such side-effects are caused to the person to consult the generic viagra sales doctor for it. The side effects of taking this drug include dizziness, mild headache, stomach upset purchase cialis on line and blushing of the face. But do not get this wrong, veterinary chiropractic is not here viagra in to replace veterinary medicine. We discover that we are out of water – Jeff has left a faucet open while shaving. There had been water, but the pump was turned off. At some point, someone turned the pump back on and the tank was emptied. We need to remember to tell crew members about this possibility.

Once settled, I send a text message to Sonia Sweeney and to Mitza to ask for restaurant recommendations – Marlene has remembered that Sonia’s place is not far from Stari Grad. Both get back with the same recommendation: Ermatige. But unfortunately, it is too far around the harbor from us so we cannot walk there. Before setting out for dinner, we have a great plate of figs, smoked cheese, and olive oil on toast.

The town is medium-sized and, even at night, charming with plenty of small alleyways, plants, shutters and old wood doors. Around each corner, there seems to be another restaurant. The 6 of us break up into smaller groups and, at various times, a group will find a nice restaurant, someone from the group will go find others, and we try to sit down. But each time, some from another group have found what they feel is a better restaurant – more scenic setting, nicer selection of food. At two different times we sit down at a table, only to get up and move to another table. Jeff, who is always hungriest first, is fuming. He would have been perfectly happy at the first restaurant on the quay. We end up in a cute courtyard with a few restaurant options and switch from one (where some have sat down) to another so that we can see the (almost full) moon. The meal at Antika is excellent and ends up being almost the cheapest of our sailing trip at 932 kn or about $140 for 6 of us with wine (Zlatan Plavac) and beer – great fresh fish (shark, sage, sea bass). It turns out that that would have been Mitza’s second choice.

After dinner, Mar, Frank, Cathy and I sit at a bar on the harbor and drink slivovitz, and Jeggermeister. We get back to the boat at 12:45.

I get up early and take a quick walk around Stari Grad. It is really charming. Around every turn in the winding alleyways is another interesting sight. I hustle back to the boat to get everyone to hustle through breakfast and then we all walk around town.

We spit up in the interest of efficiency. We see Sv. Ivana, Sv. Stephan and many other churches – some from the 5^th century! I think Mar took a picture in each cute, little alley. We find a cemetery with a chapel and Mary with seven swords (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Our_Lady_of_Sorrows) that we were not familiar with. A rope ship hidden away in a lot that we determine would be used at a festival – they would light it afire and send it out onto the water. We buy figs from a road-side stand and are taught “hvala liepo” – thank you very much and “dober” is good. We stop into a little shop and buy olive oil and Kroskovac. The woman also rents rooms for $150 euro. A search for an in-line fuse for the shower pump proves futile. There is a nice open-air market at the end of the harbor.

At the end of our trip, a sampling of the 6 travelers reveals that Stari Grad was the favorite of each of us. Hvar was the average second.

It is after 1pm when we get back to the boat. We prep lunch while motoring out of the harbor, and eat under sail. We reach to the famous Bol beach – Zlatni Rat which is interesting and covered with people. We anchor and swim. Five of the crew dingy to shore when a sudden storm approaches with lightning and thunder. Lynn is one of the 5 and is pretty freaked out as they return to the boat as the wind picks up with thunder cracking around us. As everyone gets aboard, and the wind shifts, suddenly another boat is motoring too close to us. They appear to be caught on an anchor line and cannot steer. While I go up to help fend off, the crew prepares additional fenders and starts the engine – good crew! Lynn is one of the helpers with the fenders despite the upsetting situation.

But good emotions will stimulate you viagra soft 100mg to have intercourse. Amid erectile brokenness, the penis may not react before and in viagra 20mg in india the middle of sex. A man who suffers with ED finds tadalafil generic 20mg it difficult to get or keep an erection. Both physical and psychological factors may play a role in cipla india viagra sexual dysfunction. We motor around the point and go stern-to in Bol. Backing up went great, but we had stern lines on the wrong side of the lifeline stanchions. We exchange pleasantries with the Austrians who are docked next to us. Jeff tries to tell a joke in German with hand signals.

We have a long, unsuccessful search for a dinner spot. We are a little worried about being outside because the skies are still threatening. We finally settle on the Terrace Tavern, but the storm appears to be approaching as we start to sit down. We go to plan B and order take-out delivered to the boat which is just down from the Terrace. We eat what is probably the least memorable meal of the entire trip and have plenty of left-overs.

Across the very wide sidewalk is a bar where the guitar player standing on stage seems to be playing just for us while we sit in our cockpit. Jeff and Cathy have bought some good wine and the 3 Marlenas get fired up on it. All three are a little giddy. Suddenly, Cathy jumps out of the cockpit, scampers to shore and runs up behind “tall people” walking by on the sidewalk so that we all can see how tall they are. Of course, everyone is tall compared to Cathy in bare feet anyway. After doing this a few times she realizes that the sidewalk they are walking on is higher than the one adjacent to the boat. Because of this advantage that they have, they are actually 8 inches shorter than they appear to be to her.

We finish the night with toasts and drinks of Kroskovac from the “Madonna” bottle.

It turns out that the pleasant, all-male, group of Austrians on the neighboring boat like to party – all night long. At some point in the middle of the night Jeff goes up on deck, whistles, and yells “Enough!” to quiet them down. Then the wind changes direction and picks up causing waves and cross waves that reflect off of the sea wall in the harbor. The boat starts moving on all three axis at the same time. It is really uncomfortable. Add to this the banging of the gangplank on the stern of the boat and Jeff, Cathy and Frank get very little sleep. Lynn has her medically assisted sleep and does fine. Mar and I are far enough removed from the banging gangplank that we do not hear – but are still pitched around a lot. I meet Jeff in the kitchen – he is grumpy from lack of sleep and hearing too much Austrian through the night. The boat is moving so much he accidentally dumps a pot of hot water, putting him into a more sour mood. He and Cathy go for a walk to get off of the boat and to find some baked goods.

We have not yet seen our neighbors. They probably just went to sleep. Suddenly there is a loud snap and a piece of wood pops off the back of their boat. Our stern line has caught a trim piece of their boat and snapped it off. The same line almost takes their outboard motor off of its place on their starboard stern stanchion. A short time later we see the first of the Austrians up on deck. He is probably looking for the source of the noise that woke him. A few more join him. Frank greets them with a snide “Hey party boys!”. Cathy, who is back and has now heard about the broken piece of trim, says “Avert your eyes!” and breaks me up. They are talking amongst themselves and to Jeff and Frank – I presume about the broken piece of boat.

The motion is bad and getting worse with the reflections of the waves off of the breakwater. We decide to leave before breakfast – actually immediately. We don’t know where we are going other than out. As we motor out of the harbor we run into big swells and 18 to 20 kts. We reef the sails. As we are getting settled (it is much better on the open water – even with the swells) we start talking about the Austrians and the various encounters. Cathy and I think that they were telling Jeff and Frank “piece of boat”, referring to the broken trim. Frank and Jeff say they were actually saying “piss in boat” referring to an incident from the night before. Apparently three of the Austrians had returned to the boat late from a bar. They were followed by some other people who “pissed in their boat”. This is what some of the yelling had been about in the middle of the night. We are nearly hysterical with this. Cathy says it sounds like a joke: “three guys walk out of a bar; a rabbi, a priest, and a naked fisherman”. We had sailed by a naked fisherman the day before. It was a strange sight – an old, naked fisherman standing in his punt, balancing himself against the small waves with rod in hand.

As we are sailing, Marlene selects Milna (harbor of 1000 ships) as our next destination. It is not too far from Trogir and looks nice. We have a really nice run along the scenic coast of Brac. It rains and thunders a bit and the skies look threatening. Lynn stays below until the sun starts peeking out. We round the western point in the sun and pull into a really nice cove where we swim, sun, and have lunch. We notice lots and lots of boats going into the Milna harbor – for hours while we float at anchor. The sun has been out, but storms are clearly approaching.

I force a decision. We can either stay the night in this nice cove where we will have to eat aboard, or risk going to Milna and not finding a place to put the boat – Mar comes up with two alternate backup plans that involve another island. I want to stay in this cove since I don’t like the idea of going stern-to in the pouring rain. The crew is pushing to move on. Frank assures me “We’ll be there before the storm”. I reply “It can be really miserable to berth in a storm”. We decide to give it a try.

We motor around the corner to Milna – it is packed full of boats. More boats than I have ever seen in one place. We motor slowly through the very long harbor toward town. As we reach the far end, Waypoint, the charter company, calls on my cell phone – they know we are in Milna – can we give a gas can to another boat that is also in Milna? – sure but I have to back out and I don’t think we are actually going to find a berth in Milna, but if the other boat can find us, sure – I’ve got to hang up because I’m trying to back out of tight quarters.

As I back out and then turn around, the rain starts and then gets heavy and then it pours. We have to yell over the noise of the rain. There are clearly no open berths, but another boat is going broadside to the quay (“key”) at the western end of the harbor; there seems to be a little room behind them. They are starboard-to so I approach the same way. The crew sees us approaching and right away there are 3 or 4 guys catching lines that we are throwing in the pouring rain. We don’t have much experience with throwing lines so it takes a few tries but they pull us over to the quay and we get secured. They are really helpful and really soaked. They are Polish but have a little English. They are full of smiles as we snug up to the quay. Almost right away I hear a crunch and then another. We are hitting something – probably the ground. It is still pouring rain – hard. Suddenly a man in a window in a building on shore is yelling “do you speak English?”. Yes! “Turn boat around – is shallow just here”. I let our crew know that we are going to turn the boat around to be port-to, then let the Polish crew know – I’m not sure how they understand me, but very quickly we have the boat flipped around and re-secured. As I start to take a breath and relax just a bit, there is a boat alongside our starboard side asking for the gas can; they are really close and – somehow – not moving. It is the other Waypoint boat. After some confusion about gas vs. propane, we hand over our spare propane tank and they thank us and are quickly on their way.
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I start to exhale again and then someone is telling me there is another boat hailing us. A boat is off our starboard just a little further out than the gas-can boat was. They want to raft-up. They all have foul weather gear on and look like military personnel. We are in bathing suits and look like drenched rats. I still don’t know if we are clear of the bottom, so let them know that I am going into the water to check the clearance. After trying to look over the stern swim platform, I go in, under, and find about 8 inches of water below our keel. There has been virtually no tidal swing so we are probably OK. As I get out, the man in the window is there and I ask his opinion about the raft request. He says yes, one boat is OK. He also suggests a change to the way we are tied off. I report back to the waiting crew of the boat (that again is somehow staying stationary not far off our starboard side) that, per my advisor, they can raft up but no additional boats. Seven boats end up rafted to the Polish boat.

We send a six pack of beer over to the Polish crew along with many thank yous. They quickly return with a 4 pack of 16 oz Zywiec, a Polish beer. We all raise toasts to one another. The German boat that has rafted up to us quickly delivers a bottle of wine to us as thanks. Up close they look like an Aryan Nation sailing crew; tall, blonde, bright clear blue eyes, crisp foul-weather gear, deck shoes. They are very nice.

Moments later, an official stops by to collect docking fees for the harbor. My head is spinning.

I am feeling very indebted to the man in the window. If he had not suggested turning our boat around, we would have had to leave in the rain for destination unknown; otherwise we would have damaged the boat on the rocks. All we have to offer is beer. I dry off a bit, take a six pack, and walk over to the house with this meager offering of thanks. On the way to the house I step on a thorn but ignore it. After some introductory words with his wife Liana (sp?) she introduces me to Martko (Matthew in Croatian). They offer me some schlivovitz and have me sit down on the sheet-covered sofa. They are clearly thrilled that I have come to pay them a visit.

Martko had polio as a two year old and walks with two canes and great difficulty. His upper body is big and strong from years of supporting his body on the canes. He was an English teacher in Croatia before he retired. As a side hobby, he took photographs and sold them; the proceeds were used to build this house – I presume a second home. He is a collector of stamps. There is a large model boat against a wall (in a case? I forget). He built it from scratch. The walls are covered in artwork – not his. Many books. His family were all fisherman – he understands the water but does not get out on it much. He knows the water very well in front of his house and so was able to guide us off of the rocks. Milna (like milli = 1000), the port of 1000 ships is very well protected in all weather. Mary Queen of Scots used it, as did pirates, there is a fort at the center of town, the king (queen?) used to provide food to the local peasants in exchange for their loyalty. What? I don’t know about the genocide of the Polish educated elite in the 30’s prior to WWII? I must have learned about it in school. Oh … he thought I was Polish. Liana explains that no … I am American. She understands me but does not speak English too well. When they buy olive oil in Milna, they get the best quality and a very low price – tourist pay more. My head is spinning from the very rapid sequence of events of the last hour. I tell them I really must be getting back to the boat; thank you for the drink; can I take their photo to remember them by; thanks again for his advice from the window. Come back and say “hello” if we are ever in Milna again.

Back at the boat, things are quiet. It has stopped raining, the sky is starting to clear. Lynn and Jeff are out on a reconnaissance search for a dinner spot and some snacks and bread. Showers then cocktails and hors-d’oeuvres. The sky turns red, boding well for tomorrow. We have dinner up the hill at Galicija. Great freshly caught mackerel (caught by the owner’s brother), a bad bottle of wine – replaced by the house and the total for 6 of us came to 880 kn – the lowest price for dinner for us. Four of us walk around the harbor by churches and homes and boats and cats and old stone walls. We have drinks at an open bar. Stars, moon, Jeagermeister and schlivovitz on the water in an ancient town.

We have a big egg breakfast then walk into town. We visit back alleys and churches. It is a long thin harbor. Plenty of neglected buildings just back from the main road around the harbor. It is getting hot. We reconvene back at the boat and shove off (the German boat was gone earlier). As we pull away, Martko is at the window and we all wave goodbye. We sail a short sail, maybe an hour and pull into Necujam harbor to get gas. There is a long line of boats with the same idea so we drop anchor and relax for a while. A quick dive below confirms the scrapes on the bottom of the rudder. We sun, swim and have lunch. The gas line is short after a couple of hours and we raise anchor and get in line. The dock is multi-height and we scuff the gelcoat on the side of the boat on a high spot that the fenders miss (need to remember to look for this sort of thing in the future).

 

 

We head toward Trogir in 20 kts, a run, and do 6.5 kts. Then motor-sail the last 1/2 hour on a beat and hit 7.8 kts. We are supposed to have the boat back at 6pm and arrive at 6:05. Not bad for us. We no sooner have our lines secured when the gas-can boat pulls in beside us. The captain has caught 15 keeper octopus during their week sailing. They are required to throw the little and big ones back. He knows all of the best spots for octopus catching – he is from Brac. It is an art. They needed the additional gas to cook the octopus. They never went ashore for dinners but had octopus almost every day. Their group has been sailing together for 20 years.

In speaking with a woman on the boat she mentions that Kostrena is known for producing sea captains. I mention the property in Sv. Vid. She tells me that traditionally in Croatia, the village elders knew where the property lines were and who owned each property. Since being admitted to the EU, land documentation has been required. There is, by law, 20 year squatter’s rights. She suggests that maybe if we go to Sv. Vid each year for a few years, the village elders would agree that we had rights to the land. She thinks we should come back to Croatia often – regardless. Korcula town is fairy-tale-like – we should visit it.

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A SCUBA diver comes by to inspect the bottom of the boat. I’m holding my breath about the scratches on the bottom of the rudder. Lynn starts chatting him up and taking photos of him as he goes into the water and as he comes back out. If he saw anything, he did not mention it. They were small scratches, probably of no consequence. He was too busy being charmed by Lynn anyway.

The wind picks up then it storms like hell – we wait it out below decks before our dinner search. While waiting we do some accounting. Mar estimated $900/couple for additional expenses including all groceries, meals, beverages, docking fees. We are currently at $800 per couple for expenses in Croatia. PDG.

 

After the rain stops, we take a wet walk into old Trogir and find Alka that is recommended by the receptionist at Waypoint. Service and food are both great. We have john dorie, bream, sea bass, tomato soup (so good!) and then head back to the boat after a very leisurely dinner. Frank repacks some liquids (olive oil, gin) in the kitchen and we have a final round of Madonna (Marlena?).

We rise at 7am and pack. We are off the boat by 8:50, store our luggage in the
office and take a walk through old Trogir in the daylight. There are a lot of people. Lots of shops and restaurants and ancient sights.

 

 

 

 

Mar and I have breakfast on the quay; eggs, bright tasty tomatoes, and really good cucumbers.

 

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We hear a singer on guitar and later talk with him. He has sailed to Florida in his younger days as a merchant man. He bends my ear for a while. Going into a church/museum, we need 20 kn to get in. I thought that I had some left, but search all my pockets and can’t find any. Marlene reaches toward me, and pulls a 20 kn out of my shirt pocket – like a magician. I can’t believe it and am instantly laughing and crying. I walk up the narrow, curvy steps to the top of the bell town for some great views of the town and surrounding area.

Back at the boat our transport to the airport arrives at 11:30 in a

good-sized van. The ride is much more comfortable than on the way over. I have stashed the last 6 beers in my backpack and pull them out on the ride to the airport – they are a well received surprise as the day is getting very warm.

The airport is crazy busy with the waiting areas jammed full of people. It is reminiscent of Greece. We say goodbye to the Hipples who are headed to Paris.

It was a very memorable trip.

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• There were lots of all-guy boats
• We had wi-fi on the boat but we were sucking up usage until all phones were turned off
• I had various calls from tenants and vendors – all went smoothly – time difference no problem
• Where was the guy on the dock catching octopus?
• There was lots of American/English music everywhere
• Jeff and Lynn ended up with lots of bruises, but Jeff had the most by count and severity
• We never felt hustled anywhere
• We always felt really safe
• It seems like many Croatians are very talkative – or like to talk to Americans
• There is very high unemployment in the country according to one of the taxi drivers
• I should always sail with goggles – for looking at the bottom of the boat if necessary
• I need to review how to use spring lines to spring off of a dock
• It is a good thing Mar had downloaded the cruising guide – the one on board was useless
• The waiters were all really pleasant – all male
• Tipping was not expected
• Three (3) Marlenas had a lot of fun and looked great

  

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