Wednesday – 9/10 – Stari Grad to Bol (on Brac)

I get up early and take a quick walk around Stari Grad. It is really charming. IMG_4747IMG_4731Around every turn in the winding alleyways is another interesting sight. I hustle back to the boat to get everyone to hustle through breakfast and then we all walk around town.

We spit up in the interest of efficiency. We see Sv. Ivana, Sv. Stephan and many other churches – some from the 5th century! I think Mar took a IMG_4728IMG_2508picture in each cute, little alley. We find a cemetery with a chapel and Mary with seven swords (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Our_Lady_of_Sorrows) that we were not familiar with. A rope ship hidden away in a lot that we determine would be used at a festival – they IMG_1602IMG_1833would light it afire and send it out onto the water. We buy figs from a road-side stand and are taught “hvala liepo” – thank you very much and “dober” is good. We stop into a little shop and buy olive oil and Kroskovac. The woman also rents rooms for $150 euro. A search for an in-line fuse for the shower pump proves futile. There is a nice open-air market at the end of the harbor.

At the end of our trip, a sampling of the 6 travelers reveals that Stari Grad was the favorite of each of us. Hvar was the average second.

It is after 1pm when we get back to the boat. We prep lunch while motoring out IMG_1957IMG_4759of the harbor, and eat under sail. We reach to the famous Bol beach – Zlatni Rat which is interesting and covered with people. We anchor and swim. Five of the crew dingy to shore when a sudden storm approaches with lightning and thunder. photo (9)Lynn is one of the 5 and is pretty freaked out as they return to the boat as the wind picks up with thunder cracking around us. As everyone gets aboard, and the wind shifts, suddenly another boat is motoring too close to us. They appear to be caught on an anchor line and cannot steer. While I go up to help fend off, the crew prepares additional fenders and starts the engine – good crew! Lynn is one of the helpers with the fenders despite the upsetting situation.

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We have a long, unsuccessful search for a dinner spot. We are a little worried about being outside because the skies are still threatening. We finally settle on the Terrace Tavern, but the storm appears to be approaching as we start to sit down. We go to plan B and order take-out delivered to the boat which is just down from the Terrace. We eat what is probably the least memorable meal of the entire trip and have plenty of left-overs.

Across the very wide sidewalk is a bar where the guitar player standing on stage seems to be playing just for us while we sit in our cockpit. Jeff and Cathy have bought some good wine and the 3 Marlenas get fired up on it. All three are a little giddy. Suddenly, Cathy jumps out of the cockpit, scampers to shore and runs up behind “tall people” walking by on the sidewalk so that we all can see how tall they are. Of course, everyone is tall compared to Cathy in bare feet anyway. After doing this a few times she realizes that the sidewalk they are walking on is higher than the one adjacent to the boat. Because of this advantage that they have, they are actually 8 inches shorter than they appear to be to her.

We finish the night with toasts and drinks of Kroskovac from the “Madonna” bottle.

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