Friday – 9/12 – Milna to Trogir

We have a big egg breakfast then walk into town. We visit back alleys and churches. It is a long thin harbor. Plenty of neglected buildings just back from the main road around the harbor. It is getting hot. We reconvene back at the boat and shove off (the German boat was gone earlier). As we pull away, IMG_4654Martko is at the window and we all wave goodbye. We sail a short sail, maybe an hour and pull into Necujam harbor to get gas. There is a long line of boats IMG_2605with the same idea so we drop anchor and relax for a while. A quick dive below confirms the scrapes on the bottom of the rudder. We sun, swim and have lunch. The gas line is short after a couple of hours and we raise anchor and get in line. The dock is multi-height and we scuff the gelcoat on the side of the boat on a high spot that the fenders miss (need to remember to look for this sort of thing in the future).

 

 

We head toward Trogir in 20 kts, a run, and do 6.5 kts. Then motor-sail the last IMG_07761/2 hour on a beat and hit 7.8 kts. We are supposed to have the boat back at 6pm and arrive at 6:05. Not bad for us. We no sooner have our lines secured when the gas-can boat pulls in beside us. The captain has caught 15 keeper octopus during their week sailing. They are required to throw the little and big ones back. He knows all of the best spots for octopus catching – he is from Brac. It is an art. They needed the additional gas to cook the octopus. They never went ashore for dinners but had octopus almost every day. Their group has been sailing together for 20 years.

In speaking with a woman on the boat she mentions that Kostrena is known for producing sea captains. I mention the property in Sv. Vid. She tells me that traditionally in Croatia, the village elders knew where the property lines were and who owned each property. Since being admitted to the EU, land documentation has been required. There is, by law, 20 year squatter’s rights. She suggests that maybe if we go to Sv. Vid each year for a few years, the village elders would agree that we had rights to the land. She thinks we should come back to Croatia often – regardless. Korcula town is fairy-tale-like – we should visit it.

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A SCUBA diver comes by to inspect the bottom of the boat. I’m holding my breath about the scratches on the bottom of the rudder. Lynn starts chatting him up and taking photos of him as he goes into the water and as he comes back out. If he saw anything, he did not mention it. They were small scratches, probably of no consequence. He was too busy being charmed by Lynn anyway.

The wind picks up then it storms like hell – we wait it out below decks before IMG_2764our dinner search. While waiting we do some accounting. Mar estimated $900/couple for additional expenses including all groceries, meals, beverages, docking fees. We are currently at $800 per couple for expenses in Croatia. PDG.

 

After the rain stops, we take a wet walk into old Trogir and find Alka that is IMG_0784recommended by the receptionist at Waypoint. Service and food are both great. We have john dorie, bream, sea bass, tomato soup (so good!) and then head back to the boat after a very leisurely dinner. Frank repacks some liquids (olive oil, gin) in the kitchen and we have a final round of Madonna (Marlena?).

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